Tokyo to the Powder Fields

Paddy Gower’s Japan Ski Adventure with AMPED

When Paddy Gower and his family touched down in Japan just before Christmas, this wasn’t just another holiday. It was a carefully crafted journey through some of Japan’s most iconic experiences. From neon-lit Tokyo streets, to steaming mountain onsens, then into the deep powder of Hakuba Valley – this is what a Japanese ski adventure looks like when it’s done right.

Reflecting on the trip, Paddy wrote “We all dream of travel. Japan was a dream for me. You can make these dreams come true.“

Tokyo: A Fast-Paced Introduction to Japan

Landing in Tokyo on Christmas Eve, the trip kicked off with four nights in the city, the perfect way to ease into Japan’s culture, cuisine, and energy. Based at Tokyo Bay Shiomi Prince Hotel, the family were well placed to explore, with easy access to the train network and to some of the city’s major drawcards, including the famous Tsukiji fish market area and Tokyo Disneyland Theme Parks.

A real highlight was their private guided day through Tokyo, which was fully tailored to the family’s interests. Rather than following a fixed schedule, the day was shaped around the sights, pace, and experiences that suited them best, giving them a more personal introduction to the city.

The tour took in some of Tokyo’s most famous spots, including the historic Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, before moving into the energy of Shibuya and up to Shibuya Sky for sweeping views across the city. From there, the day continued into Harajuku, known for its street fashion, shopping, and youthful atmosphere. It was a chance to experience both sides of Tokyo in one day, from traditional streets and temples to some of the city’s most modern and lively neighbourhoods.

Having a local guide helps turn a day of sightseeing into something far more immersive, with the bonus of local insight along the way. It also opened the door to Tokyo’s food culture, whether that meant stopping for lunch somewhere local, trying well-known dishes, or simply learning more about the city through the way people eat, shop, and move around it.

Tokyo also delivered an unexpected highlight with a glimpse into Japan’s famous car culture. Paddy joined a Tokyo Drift-style tour to a JDM car meet, adding a fun after-dark contrast to the city’s temples, shopping streets, and skyline views.

It’s this balance that makes Tokyo such an essential first stop. You arrive, reset, and start to understand the rhythm of Japan before heading into the mountains. 

Into the Mountains: Bullet Trains & Onsens

From Tokyo, the journey shifted gears, literally.

A seamless train ride out of the city delivered the family to Minakami, a lesser-known alpine region surrounded by dramatic mountains and rivers.

Staying riverside in a traditional onsen setting, the experience here was all about contrast to the city. Snow-covered landscapes, steaming hot springs, and multi-course dinners created a completely different pace. A visit to the iconic Takaragawa Onsen, tucked deep in the mountains, added a true “only in Japan” moment to the trip.

Minakami was also a big part of the ski side of the journey. A full-day private lesson with Canyons, led by Becky, a Kiwi instructor based in Minakami, gave the family a tailored introduction to the area’s snow and terrain, with the day shaped around their level and what they wanted to get out of it. Having expert local guidance made it easy to get the most out of their time on the mountain while enjoying a more personalised experience than a standard group lesson.

That mix of relaxed onsen culture and guided mountain time is what made Minakami such a standout stop. It offered a quieter, more intimate side of a Japanese snow holiday before the trip moved on again. 

Kusatsu Onsen: A Cultural Detour

Next stop was Kusatsu, one of Japan’s most famous hot spring towns and a destination that added a completely different flavour to the journey.

This is where Japan begins to slow down.

Known for its traditional ryokans, steaming streets, and strong onsen culture, Kusatsu offered a deeper cultural immersion away from the ski slopes. The town has a character all of its own, with hot spring water flowing through the centre, locals and visitors wandering between bathhouses, and that unmistakable sulphur smell in the air. Anyone from New Zealand who has spent time in Rotorua will feel strangely at home.

One of the standout cultural experiences here was the Yumomi show, a traditional Kusatsu performance based around the town’s famous hot spring water. Held at Netsu-no-Yu, the show demonstrates the old practice of cooling the steaming onsen water with large wooden paddles, all set to song and ritual. It is a uniquely local tradition and a great example of how closely Kusatsu’s identity is tied to its hot springs.

Here, the focus shifted again. Less about skiing, more about slowing down, soaking in the onsen, wandering the town, and taking in a side of Japan that many snow travellers never make time for. It is these kinds of stops that turn a ski holiday into something much more memorable, adding culture, atmosphere, and a real sense of place to the adventure.

Hakuba: The Main Event

Then came Hakuba.

Arriving via Nagano and a private transfer into the valley, Paddy and his family settled into their alpine base in Wadano, one of Hakuba’s most popular areas for easy access to the slopes and village life.

With a Hakuba Valley lift pass in hand, they had the freedom to explore multiple resorts across the valley, from the wide-open terrain of Happo-One to the varied runs and different mountain experiences found throughout the region. Five days of skiing were spread across their stay, giving them the chance to mix bigger mountain days with cruisier laps and time to explore at a relaxed pace.

That variety is a big part of what makes Hakuba so appealing. One day can mean long groomed runs and huge alpine views, while the next brings fresh snow and a completely different feel on the mountain. Off the slopes, the valley is just as easy to enjoy, with village dining, shuttle access, and a lively atmosphere adding to the experience.

This is where Japan really delivers, with consistent snowfall, impressive scenery, and the flexibility to experience multiple resorts all under one lift pass.

Why This Trip Worked So Well

After eight nights in Hakuba, the journey home was just as smooth as the trip itself, with a private transfer back to Nagano followed by a high-speed train to Narita for the flight home. It was an easy finish to a multi-stop adventure that had flowed seamlessly from start to finish.

That is what made this trip stand out. It was not just about the destinations themselves, but the way they came together. From the energy of Tokyo to the slower pace of Minakami and Kusatsu, and finally the snow-filled days in Hakuba, each stop added something different to the experience. It was a holiday that balanced culture, adventure, family time, and skiing without ever feeling rushed.

This was not just a ski trip. It was a full Japanese winter experience, carefully put together to make the most of everything the country does so well.